2023 Corsica tasting
Something like "Wine tasting", little sips of Corsica to get the desire for more.
While Linda and myself (Dirk) are together now for nearly 20 years, we both know Pierre and Martine for more than 35 years. They are living in the south of France and suggested to go on a short trip to Corsica. In 10 days, we would never be able to cover the entire island by bike so we planned it as a mixed Bike/Car trip.
5 days of cycling, 1 day of hiking and 4 days of relaxing and having good times with our friends.
In April, the tourist season in Corsica is just starting up and the small roads around the island are not busy yet.
For a long time, Linda's all time favourite bicycle tour was the trip around Ireland, but during these 10 days, we got convinced that Corsica challenges this top position a lot.
We will certainly come back to see and experience all the beauty this island has to offer.
All cycle tracks have been seen and downloaded from the website : Corsica Cyclist
Video on DILISTUFF YouTube channel
Ajaccio
We took the car ferry from Toulon to Ajaccio, but there are also ferry services to Corsica from Marseille or Nice. From most ports in France, you can sail to Ajaccio, L'íle Rousse or Bastia, all depending from where you want to start your trip. Best is to compare prices as they seem to vary depending travel period. We took the day trip but it's also possible to do the night crossing and to book a sleeper hut.
Ajaccio is the capital of Corsica and the birthplace of French Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte in 1769. Ajaccio offers pretty narrow streets with colourful houses and you can visit Napoleon's birth house which is now a museum with it's personal souvenirs.
On our day arrival, it was just the day of carnaval which is manly a children's event with a parade.
Hiking the Gorges de Spelunca
From Ajaccio, we drove to the north, passing the Calangues de Piana.
Best way to discover these red ocre cliffs is by boat, but that is something we'll do next visit.
Our first real outdoor activity on the island was the Gorges de Spelunca hike. The hike follows an old mule track between the villages Evisa and Ota and runs down the bottom of the gorge next to the Spelunca River.
The trail takes you a few hours to complete.
Cycling, from Porta Ota to the bay of Galeria
It's about 50 km between Porta Ota and the bay of Galeria, always up and down, always turning.
The views are incredible, being there in April also meant nearly no other traffic on these winding roads.
By car to Saint Florent, Cap Corse by bicycle
Leaving the bay of Galeria, you can see faraway the snowy mountains of the inland. That's where the real adventurers can walk the GR20 from Calenzane to Conca, considered the most difficult of all GR routes.
Leaving Saint Florent, you are passing the black beaches of Nonza.
These beaches never seem to be very busy as the black colour comes from residues of an old quarry related to the mining of asbestos.
While perfectly save, most people are not keen on giving it a try.
On this part of Cap Corse, there are not many places to stay and we decided to get an hotel in the fishing port of Century. Most restaurants have their own fishing boats and what you eat here comes directly from the sea.
On day 2 of our trip around Cap Corse, we stopped in Barcaggio for lunch and continued to Tollare, the most northern point of Corsica. From both places, you have a nice view of the island of Giraglia with it's lighthouse and the Torre di Giraglia.
For the rest of the day, we continued our trip till Bastia where we would be picked up by our friends the day after.
While we did our tour clockwise, we would recommend to do this anti-clockwise if you are doing it in a more busy season. Anti-clockwise, you are cycling closest to the sea. Also, we think that the part between Barcaggio and Saint Florent is the nicest part so it's a good idea to keep this for last.
TIP : If you are looking for a nice, not too expensive hotel in Bastia, check out the Hotel Central. Very well located, friendly service and nice art.
Corto
Lunch stop on our way from Bastia to the Porto Vecchio region was Corte, a nice town on the GR20 in the mountainous heart of Corsica.
Oh Yes, wherever you are in France and say that you have been in Corsica, they will always refer to Corsica's Charcuterie as one of the best.
Charcuterie are cold cuts and you will find a plate of Charcuterie plate in every restaurant as a recommended starter or snack.
Bonifacio
Bonifacio is on the southern tip of Corsica and is the oldest city of the island. It's build on the limestone cliffs and has a very nice medieval citycenter.
By boat, it takes you about an hour by ferry to the Italian island of Sardinia.
TIP :
Go for lunch at "Chez Vincent". It's just a little restaurant in front of the Sainte Marie Majeure church.
The guy is really friendly and funny.
We parked our bicycles in front of his restaurant while we were visiting the old city.
Col de l'Ospedale - Col de Bacinu
This bicycle loop goes from Porto Vecchio up the Col de l'Ospedale and back via the Col de Bacinu.
Just after Ospedale, you'll see the Ospedale lake and again a little further, there is a large parking from where you can do a nice hike up to the Piscia di Ghjaddu waterfall.
The hike to and back from the waterfall will take about 2 hours and it is recommended to wear good shoes as the path becomes rather rough towards the end close to the waterfall.
We parked our bicycles on the terrace of the little restaurant at the start of the hike - and they have nice pancakes too.
Gulf of Santa Giulia
Our hotel for the period that we stayed near Porto Vecchio was walking distance from the Gulf of Santa Giulia and it's beaches. From this place, we did the bicycle trips to Bonifacio and the Col de l'Ospedale.
The different beaches seem very popular in the high season but the period we were here, most of the bars and leisure equipment rental shops were still in full preparation for the summer season.
For us, certainly the right time to be here.
For returning back home, we took the slow roads in France and also visited the Massif de Esterel, the Gorges du Verdon, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Sisteron, the Beaujolais and the Maconnais, ending with a visit to the abbey of Clunny in Burgundy.